Read my latest NYT dispatch on kolaches, the food that Texans associate with clean bathrooms and highway emporiums. That's a pic of Ryan Pera, chef at Revival Market in Houston. Along with Morgan Weber, his business partner, I ate my weight in kolaches on a daylong binge and lived to tell the tale here.
My latest. Read the full column here.
On a summer day in 1949, ballerina Tanaquil Le Clercq, novelist Donald Windham, painter Buffie Johnson, playwright Tennessee Williams, and writer-provocateur Gore Vidal gathered at Café Nicholson, a bohemian supper club set in the back courtyard of an antique store on New York City’s Upper East Side. It was a heady moment. Williams had won a Pulitzer Prize the year before. Vidal had just published The City and the Pillar. Beneath the shade trees in proprietor Johnny Nicholson’s garden, they ate and drank. They smoked and gossiped. They posed and preened, fully aware that photographer Karl Bissinger was there to capture their idyll for posterity....
"Salad Days" (1949) by Karl Bissinger. From the Karl Bissinger Papers, University of Delaware Library. Courtesy of David Fechheimer. From left to right: Tanaquil Le Clercq, Donald Windham, Virginia Reed, Buffie Johnson, Tennessee Williams, Gore Vidal
Edward Linsmier for The New York Times
Bottarga, Straight out of Cortez, FL in the NYT
My latest in the NYT. Read up. For centuries, fishermen here have netted mullet, an oily fish that retails for about $1 to $3 a pound and takes well to deep-frying or smoking. But in Italy, where some of this village’s harvest is shipped, sacs of roe are removed from the fish, cured and marketed as a delicacy, bottarga, that often sells back in the United States for more than $100 a pound...
If you don't believe me, just read this piece in Departures, wherein I sing the city's multi-culti praises. (And the praises of this Viet breakfast from Blacksmith.)