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Monday
Mar242014

Potlikker in the Oxford American

10 years back, Calvin Trillin gave a brilliant talk here in Oxford in which he quoted past New Yorker articles liberally.

I was thinking about Bud when I wrote this piece about the state of potlikker, which quotes my own thesis.  Spoiler alert: It also includes rationalizations that connect potlikker and dashi.

15 years into my relationship with the Oxford American I value that magazine more than ever.

Look for a special food issue -- my third guest editor gig with the magazine -- in the spring of 2015. 

 

 

Thursday
Jan092014

3 Garden & Gun Columns

I've been remiss in posting new content here. Mostly because I've been busy writing. Here's a troika of recent pieces, moving back in time from January 2014.

Want to know what I ate in 2013 that I think you should eat in 2014? Here's my annual best-of

In that same issue, I wrote an ode to Merroir, the Virginia oyster shack that just might be the best end-of-the-road spot in the South. That one's not online yet. I'll link it soon. 

And then there's Easy Tiger in Austin, the bakery that tucked a beer hall downstairs. Those bien cuit croissants! That beer cheese! 

 

Tuesday
Oct082013

Tex-Czech Kolaches in NYT

Read my latest NYT dispatch on kolaches, the food that Texans associate with clean bathrooms and highway emporiums. That's a pic of Ryan Pera, chef at Revival Market in Houston. Along with Morgan Weber, his business partner, I ate my weight in kolaches on a daylong binge and lived to tell the tale here. 

Monday
Sep232013

Paying Down Debts of Pleasure in the Oxford American

My latest. Read the full column here.

On a summer day in 1949, ballerina Tanaquil Le Clercq, novelist Donald Windham, painter Buffie Johnson, playwright Tennessee Williams, and writer-provocateur Gore Vidal gathered at Café Nicholson, a bohemian supper club set in the back courtyard of an antique store on New York City’s Upper East Side. It was a heady moment. Williams had won a Pulitzer Prize the year before. Vidal had just published The City and the Pillar. Beneath the shade trees in proprietor Johnny Nicholson’s garden, they ate and drank. They smoked and gossiped. They posed and preened, fully aware that photographer Karl Bissinger was there to capture their idyll for posterity....

Photo caption:

"Salad Days" (1949) by Karl Bissinger. From the Karl Bissinger Papers, University of Delaware Library. Courtesy of David Fechheimer. From left to right: Tanaquil Le Clercq, Donald Windham, Virginia Reed, Buffie Johnson, Tennessee Williams, Gore Vidal